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GrapesBased in Vertus in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, Larmandier-Bernier have long been one of the foremost interpretors of Blanc de Blancs champagne. Under Pierre and Sophie Larmandier, and increasingly now the next generation with their sons Arthur and George, they continue to biodynamically farm 50 parcels around the chalk soils of the Côte to deliver some of the most mineral and pure expressions of Chardonnay possible. These special releases are a particular treat. To call your champagne a 'Special Club' requires a lot of hoop jumping. First you have to be a recoltant-manipulant, to make wine solely from grapes that you grow on land that you farm yourself. Then you have to be invited as one of the 28 members of the Club de Trésor de Champagne, an exclusive circle of renowned grower families in the Champagne region. Then the vintage in question has to be unanimously approved by club members as being sufficiently high in quality to release. And even after that the wine has to pass two panel tastings, first as a still vin clair, and then 3 years after ageing in bottle. It is unsurprising that Special Club champagne bottlings represent some of the finest wines possible to experience in the region
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier’s rich history dates back to the French Revolution, though its modern-day tale begins with Pierre and Sophie Larmandier, who took the reins at the estate back in 1988. The pair have been farming organically and biodynamically since their early days, at a time when cultivating vines in such a way was far less fashionable than it is today. This is a testament to the pair’s fervent belief that great vines are first made in the vineyard, and that healthy fruit is the backbone to high-quality, long-lived bottles. At Larmandier-Bernier, fruit comes from premier and grand cru vines scattered across the Côtes des Blancs. Each cru is vinified separately, so as to convey the individuality of each unique growing site. In the cellar, native yeasts are used, and vinification is done partially in barrel. All wines are aged for a number of years prior to riddling and disgorgement, which are done by hand. Pierre is also of the belief that little to no dosage is key in allowing Champagne’s unique micro-terroirs to properly show themselves, which means that all wines are bottled with less than four grams of dosage.
